Monday, September 16, 2013

Tasty treasures from Nova Scotia

Two weeks in Nova Scotia was a whirlwind of visiting people.  These folks are so friendly you can't be in their neck of the woods without dropping by, or they'll get offended that you missed them.  Crossed the width of the province several times, which is thankfully only an hour's drive and is unfathomable for a westerner like me! We try to explore a bit, beyond people's kitchens and living rooms, so featured here are some gems I found;

First off I'll commend the organization of the good folks in Freeport/Westport, NS.  Two remote towns with a ferry between them, they're either really well-trained to the flux and disorientation of tourists, or are just naturally super-helpful! The goto spot for grub in Freeport, especially seafood chowder, is Lavena's Catch Café.  I'll add my support to the voice of all the other positive reviews online! On the recommendation of locals in another town we just mentioned to our hostess that we needed to catch the last ferry to Westport, and she assured us we'd be fine - indeed our food was served timely, as well as a generous portion and delicious quality.  The ambience is casual and family-friendly, with Trivial Pursuit available while you're waiting.  Tender scallops and haddock, creamy chunky chowder, both paired nicely with the Jost Chablis.  We saved room for peanut butter pie for dessert.  At the end of our meal our hostess volunteered the café phone to call the hostel in Westport and confirm we're still taking a room there. 
Onto the ferry next, the operators were patient and welcoming, no worries. 
And the hostel owner waited up for us and our arrival after the office closed, no problem, we'll trust you settle the bill in the morning.  It turned out we had the whole space to ourselves after the holiday long weekend, and though we just needed a bed to crash and sleep overnight the hostel looks like a comfy place to stay awhile; two showers (one toilet), and a communal lounge and kitchen facilities.  An unobstructed view on a clear day, and a great view of the fog when we were there that makes me want to snuggle into the couch with a cuppa tea and just be warm and quiet with the cold outside.

Back on the topic of seafood, I made it my mission to have seafood everyday there! Nova Scotia's pride is scallops and lobsters, and I enjoyed several meals of baked scallops, lobster rolls, and chowder.  I think my favorite scallops were at the Seaside Shanty in Chester Basin; just a small appy but done in a fabulous tarragon sauce that needed to be sopped up with bread so as not to waste it after the scallops were devoured.  I am reminded that I should have/use tarragon more often, because whenever I do I love it. 

The pursuit of seafood wasn't limited to fine dining; I got a McLobster from McDonalds which I still consider regional cuisine! I had clams+chips from several places including a food truck.  I had salmon+capers+onions+cream cheese in wraps and bagels for breakfast and lunch, great portable food for exploring and road trips.  A friend's kids caught some bass in the Mersey river (okay, technically not SEAfood? but I gutted them myself and we grilled it up on the barbecue just fine).  I had lobster+shrimp sushi (debatably Nova Scotians refer to both shrimp and prawns as simply 'shrimp').   

Hit the Blue Olive Greek Taverna for kalamari.  For the longest time I didn't like Greek food as I'm not particularly a fan of olives or feta cheese, which seems to be found in every dish, and yet I like this.  The Greek salad was perfect for me; refreshingly not drowned in oily dressing, the feta crumbled like snow on top.  Two olives perched atop like bird's eggs, thus easily flicked across the table at my date *pfshewm!* [insert childish projectile-firing noise here].  The tzatziki dip was fantastic and had a spicy zing that held its own - nothing worse than a wimpy dip.  It carried itself well with the strong pine-resin retsina wine, which is a fun try for an adventurous palate.  My compliments to the chef, and I will make a point to visit whenever I'm there.

I'd be amiss if I didn't highlight a winery here, no? Try Annapolis Highland Vineyards near Bear River, gotta get off the main highway but well worth the detour.  Not only is the product fine, but the staff are friendly and informative of their wine and business, and the area in general - props to Brendan who steered us to the aforementioned Lavena's Catch Café.  A thorough tasting of their menu leaves me liking both reds and whites, some varietals I've never heard of, blends are thoughtful and we got three bottles. 

A great meal I was glad to be in time for this year was the Heritage Blueberry Festival at the Parkdale/Maplewood Community Museum.  This is just the sort of one-offs I love to stumble into on my travels.  A small yet popular event, as well as admission into the museum that showcases the town's history we browse through the local crafts and swap meet, and enjoy a huge and delicious meal of regional specialties: Lunenburg sausage, sauerkraut (can you tell the German roots here?), pudding (as in, European blood sausage, not the butterscotch/chocolate dessert we know in North America), soloman gundy (pickled herring), smeltz potato and hodge podge (mashed potatos deluxe), sauerkraut salad (sweeter, and my favorite on my plate), sweet pickles and pickled beets.  Homemade bread. Coffee+tea. Dessert was either (or both!) blueberry pie or blueberry grunt, a sort of steamed dumpling, using low-bush blueberries that are tiny but flavourful. 

Wildlife charities need your support!

Recently I had the opportunity to visit two wildlife charities on opposite ends of the country.  Both participated in Jamieson Vitamin's Call for the Wild campaign to distribute $100,000 to wildlife charities across Canada, thus both held their open house to drum up support for their cause.  While the voting for the contest is now closed, it's important to acknowledge their amazing efforts year round.

The Vancouver Aquarium Marine Mammal Rescue Center is quietly tucked away among the shipping yards of Coal Harbour in Vancouver.  I've noticed that some organizations here that deal with rescued animals typically prefer to keep a low profile, lest the vocal anti-captivity protesters both harass the volunteer staff and stress the recovering animals, thus the rescue center itself is a working facility that does not entertain visitors - save for its invitation-only open house.  Most of the patients there are orphaned harbour seal pups, whose stay average two months till they are nursed up to weight and display an ability to catch their own fish.  Feeding was quite a noisy trial as seal pups don't take an artificial teat and are fed a deliciously viscous paste of formula and fish oil pumped through a tube and syringe, and it takes two volunteers to administer this.  This year was a 'quieter' year, as they had only 45 down from the approx 150 that came through their doors last year.  After meeting each pup, we decided to sponsor a little lady named Sunflower (this year they were named after astronomical bodies) who was very chatty and decidedly the most engaging.  If you've never heard a seal bark, they sound a bit like E.T. and I could've sworn she was trying to mimic our 'hello'... The staff were helpful in answering questions, and we finished with complimentary ice cream with sprinkles! 

Far from low profile is Hope For Wildlife in Seaforth, Nova Scotia - indeed they have their own tv show shown in several channels and countries, as well as allow tours upon email request including group presentations and birthday parties.  This open house was like a community block party, with other guests bringing their animals to showcase and educate the masses - this year we saw the police K9 unit, a woman with her pet pygmy goats, a 'pirate' and her parrot, and a zoo worker with an alligator.  Do not pet the alligator.  Saw the resident mascots Oliver the one-eyed owl and Maxwell the three-legged skunk.  Hope for Wildlife has fantastic facilities that keep growing, including a space for deer (closed to public, as the young imprint too easily), a flight cage for raptors, a nursery, and a new marine pool holding two seals as of August - as well as the gazebo hosting music acts, the learning center and gift shop for humans.  Been there, done that, got the T-shirt; it was pointed out to me that when worn with an open zip-up sweater the breast logo reads "HO FOR WILD", which was a laugh but I'd gladly advertise on my body.  We bought our $3 hamburgers for lunch to support the cause and enjoyed the free cotton candy and Timbits+coffee, browsed the bake sale goodies, silent auction goods and animal-themed artwork on display.  I could spend hours there just reading every sign, well done!   

Monday, August 19, 2013

Pit For Your Supper

A great initiative from the folks at Heather Hospitality; Pit For Your Supper.  Volunteers get a free beer and meal in exchange for their time pitting and coring fruit for numerous coulis, sauces, jellies and even beers served/sold in the Heather Hospitality businesses in Vancouver's historic Gastown. 

I had just heard about this last year and luckily found a spot for the last one of the season.  I found a seat in the middle of a table so long that I couldn't even holler to the folks at each end.  We were issued a cutting board and paring knife, and shared buckets full of fruit and yet-empty of cores.  I marvelled that they would issue knives to strangers without signing a waiver and trusted we don't stab ourselves or each other.  The theme for this session was apples, and we appled and appled until we reached the end of our apples - then the staff brought out pears to round out our hour (or was it two?) of labour.  I had a great conversation with the couple seated next to me, and was spurred to work faster by the fella two seats down who was racing through the apples in front of him.  I would've lost all track of time had the staff not cleared our table.  Our beer was the Fat Tug IPA and our dinner was pork loin with an apricot coulis (probably the previous volunteers' project), potato salad and coleslaw.

This year the venue changed and we were divided up into smaller tables.  Personally I preferred the long table, but here had more space to move around and fetch our own fruit from the stack of boxes in the center of the room.  I'm sure it made it easier on the staff.  Our theme was peaches, which were easier or harder to pit depending on the ripeness of each - the firm ones chipped apart in shards almost, and the soft ones just smunched in my hands.  Good thing they weren't focused on presentation, the fruit's getting pureed anyway.  I think we finished all the fruit they'd provided in just over an hour, and patiently anticipated dinner.  Our beer was the Blood Alley Bitter and my dinner was beef brisket (everyone else got pork tenderloin? I suppose they just ran out in the kitchen, no worries, it was fantastic) with roasted red pepper coulis and red wine au jus, and a slice each of zucchini, bell pepper, and golden beet.

I think this is a creative initiative that benefits both owners and guests.  The restaurants get publicity through word of mouth, and our labour cost is essentially the cost of ingredients used in our meals, which is likely whatever tail-end remnants they want to finish up in the kitchen and beers they want to rotate on tap.  Guests get to a free beer+artfully crafted meal, and the opportunity to work together with strangers at a common task which is a great way to meet new people and spark conversation.  As this explodes in popularity it's getting more difficult to grab a seat on the guest list.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Gibsons is growing up

I sailed away to Gibsons for a holiday weekend, having not been there for several months and finally affording the time for a more thorough exploration of the town.  It's really almost two towns, the newer big chain stores and businesses on the hill that arguably keep the town running for residents, and the older Gibson's Landing down the hill on the waterfront that draw in the tourists with artsie boutique shops and a variety of restaurants.  The houses there are a hodgepodge collection of ages and styles that suggest that neighbours aren't as caught up in the trappings of measurable curb appeal as us city rats.  One of my favorite properties has a fence made of wonky driftwood logs and planks, another is a jungle of bamboo peppered with mosaic installations.

Passing development proposal signs and a garage sale, I discover that these properties have been bought out and sections of this waterfront are going to be a several-storey convention center and condos.  Some residents lament the loss of the area's charm, which frankly I thought was drawing the tourists and thus bolstering the economy, but the new multi-use buildings will make it a 'destination' to bring in investors and other supporting businesses.  Apparently the town "needs the money".  Pity the cost of progress. 

So get while the getting's good before it's ruined! Their landmark restaurant Molly's Reach wouldn't dare be jeopardized as it's world famous from the long-running Canadian TV series The Beachcombers.  They serve an eggs benny made of crab cakes, so I try to catch that whenever I'm over that way.  Also on my list is Smitty's Oyster House; this particular weekend they were fully booked up for a private function.  Reservations suggested.  A meal of oysters+chardonnay is seldom cheap anywhere (unless you have a DIY source for fresh shellfish and home brew perhaps? If so, give me a call...!), so this is a personal indulgence that is part of the 'destination' of Gibsons.  Disappointed yet determined for oysters, a 360-degree spin from class and sophistication found what what the Brits affectionately refer to as a "chippy" - Codfathers.  Tiny hole in the wall that piqued my interest during a stroll that afternoon, I ordered their Sin Burger that was today's special; salmon served in a bannock, served with candied salmon cornbread fritters with maple syrup.  Most of the components of this meal were deep-fried.  Got breaded oysters too, huzzah! I'd pair with beer rather than wine, but they had no liquor licence and I had pop instead, fine, there is a simple pleasure of sugar and fizz on a hot sunny summer evening.  I had already had ice cream that afternoon at Mike's Place, and was impressed with the three counters of gelato to choose from.  I chose the 7th Heaven that had everything good in it including cheesecake chunks, pistachios, dark chocolate, and ginger.  Excellent!

The icing on the cake, so to speak, was the free outdoor music offered that weekend and indeed most of the summer.  I caught it first on Saturday evening as the CDs I was listening to were drowned out by the siren call of a bluesy harmonica wafting across the harbour.  A concert already in progress is motivation enough to pile dirty dinner dishes in the sink for later and run to catch the show! I caught just the last two songs, and enjoyed both the quality of the music and the vibe of the audience so chill and supportive.  Sunday afternoon showcased a violin and keyboard/accordion duo at the tiny farmer's market.  They lent a distinctive French flavour that would suit a chocolate croissant.

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Farewell, Minter Gardens

It's too bad the Minter Gardens are closing in October.  I felt this was one of the nicest attractions out in the Fraser Valley,  though far enough away (Chilliwack) that I suppose it wasn't financially viable anymore. Taking a sunny Sunday I felt I'd take the opportunity to visit one last time, and encourage others to do so.  Adult admission is $20 but one can enjoy a leisurely full day there, with an elegant restaurant and café and a network of trails over 13 acres. 

Following the main garden path has thoughtful details around every corner through sculpture and arrangement; topiaries and water features and organized flower beds.  Most of the bulb flowers and vines were finished blooming, and late July's colors featured astilbe, begonias, marigolds, dusty miller, osteospermum, geraniums, dahlias, alyssum, and some late roses. 

A surprise was a demonstration from Cinemazoo and the Urban Reptile Rescue, who brought little friends in tubs and cages and let the crowd handle them.  I got a boa constrictor draped on me, held a bearded dragon, and pet a tagu and a tortoise that were lounging on the path.  The facilitators were very informative, and it was a great opportunity for everyone.

After a picnic outside we returned to find the outer path was closed due to a bear sighting in the area (!), so we had pretty much explored every corner that we could.  I had noticed throughout the day that there seemed few birds around, but it was just when I was still enough settling on the well-manicured lawn that I caught the flash of yellow tails over a pond fountain - the cedar waxwings' acrobatic flycatching was a calming dance to watch, what a way to spend a summer afternoon!    

Friday, July 19, 2013

New flavours

My summer so far has been fairly engaging; according to a friend we've had hot sunshine for 27 days straight and I think it's affecting everyone's overall outlook and demeanour (including my own). Talking to strangers and trying new things - less of an adventure per se, but a break from routine or the introspection of January.  Now is the time for external stimuli!

Going for ice cream with a friend, I know he loves Tiger but I was never a fan of black liquorice as a kid (perhaps the orange and black swirl together to make an unappetizing mud-color?), so I decided it's time to revisit Tiger with an adult perspective, the verdict being that that the mild spice compliments the sweet fruitiness of the orange in a way that works for me.  I've had a tea like this as well that is both uplifting with the citrus and a digestive aid with the carminative anise.  Thumbs up for Tiger! And while I'm on the subject of ice cream I'll plug La Casa Gelato, the best place I know for ice cream in Vancouver, just for the sheer selection of flavors - Italian, Asian, and bizarre creations.  A bit expensive for a regular visit but an enjoyable treat, and you get to sample any flavour before you buy, so that can take awhile of flitting back and forth along the counter like a butterfly.

Dinner with another friend found us with tzatziki dip on everything - that was both salad dressing and steak sauce.  The salad I could have guessed, being creamy+dill over vegetables, but I was skeptical that the dip wouldn't be lost on a typical barbecued beef steak.  It was a pleasant surprise, so I'll keep in in mind as yet another option for steak treatment.  You never know unless you try!

The CBC radio station in Vancouver continues its free Musical Nooners concert series on the patch of fresh lawn outside the station right downtown, a welcome break for office workers to take their lunch al fresco and enjoy a show.  Again, it's a great variety of styles and tastes that one may typically not gravitate to or even considered, but an opportunity to try it.  Quiet singer perched on a stool strumming a guitar, raucous Latin salsa, maybe klezmer/polka?? All accessible for families and inoffensive to common sensibilities (does that rule out rap and metal?) I've caught a few shows so far this season, they were well presented and played.

Friday, June 14, 2013

Digging in the dirt

Earlier this month I found a great opportunity to volunteer with Fresh Roots Urban Farm to set up a farm garden on what I believe is technically the school grounds that is now opened up to the community as a multi-use space (an off-leash dog area, and now a food producing garden.  With no fences separating the two thusfar, I assume that dogs fouling on the veggies won't be a major concern.  We've painted plenty of  'Please clean up after your dog' signs, and trust that common sense and social responsibility will prevail), as well as an outdoor classroom for the students to visit. 

The planting, maintenance, harvest, and sale of the crops will be managed by the Fresh Roots farmers, so really our work that weekend was mostly moving earth.  Giant piles of earth wheelbarrowed, shovelled, and raked into orderly foot-high rows.  I spent an afternoon on Saturday and a full day on a Tuesday with a great mix of parents teaching their kids, office professionals teambuilding, university/college students applying their biology program education, and earthy hipsters not afraid to get dirty.  I would definitely be up for doing this again in the future.
 
This involved some of my favorite things;
- community involvement for a worthwhile cause I support.
- contribution to a group project with pleasant friendly people.
- digging in smelly, honest earth. AKA gardening.
- the fresh air and sunshine (thankfully it wasn't raining, or my post about digging in mud would have a very different tone).