Sunday, May 26, 2013

Wines of Keremeos and Cawston

A long weekend expedition to the Okanagan typically brings me past the small towns of Keremeos and Cawston following the main highway as it snakes along the Similkameen valley between the river and the steep hills, and I've been meaning to stop and explore the wineries there.  While the Okanagan has been feverishly ripping up established orchards to plant vineyards instead, the Similkameen towns embrace their fruity heritage and there seems to be more of a balance of fruit stands and wineries, including a fruit winery of course.  The wineries pride themselves on being small family-run operations, and you can't guarantee to find these labels outside of the VQA or private wine merchants.  I prefer these small yield wines, it feels like more of a rare treat than whatever the 'house wine' is at a given restaurant.  It's a great excuse to purchase straight for the source and speak with the knowledgeable producers about their product, region, and history.

First stop was not a good start for wine tasting; they were a new winery that had just opened up, the tasting room smelled very strongly of.. building/finishing/cleaning materials? Not good.  And the wines were very young.  Perhaps I'll try them again in a few seasons, once they get settled a bit. 

Next up was Robin Ridge, and a much better presentation with the friendly family patriarch.  Their Gewurztraminer was drier than I prefer but held the aromatic notes I love best.  I was glad to see a straight Gamay too.  Most noteworthy was the rose "Flamingo" made from a table varietal, an easy and accessible fruitiness that reminded me of a wine made from Concord grapes I had several years ago, and I am glad to support winemakers bending the rules of tradition. 

Taking a wrong turn while searching for one winery lead me to Herder; snug against the hillside was a gorgeous and spacious Mediterranean-style building, with the great potential to be a B&B or host receptions.  Only sampling three wines, "Three Sisters" had a fine balance of Pinot Gris' crisp acidity, Chardonnay's smoothness, and Viognier's nose.  

The right turn found Clos du Soleil; wines done in the Bordeaux style.  Their white focused on Sauvignon Blanc tempered with a bit of Semillon, and I was glad to have a fresh clean white that walks the line without being too acidic, sweet, or oaked.  I am increasingly a fan of the pliable Sauv Blanc and its versatility with meal pairings.  Fume Blanc caught my attention here.  Tried two reds; the harvest had produced poor Cabernet Franc that year, and one blend included their contribution for the sake of French tradition, while the other excluded it for the sake of taste - the difference was definitely noticeable.  I'll stick with their whites. 

Just down the street (and in the next town of Cawston, organic capital of BC) was the Orofino strawbale winery.  This one gets top marks in all regards, and I count this as my best new find of this trip! The presenter was a wealth of information about the wines, winery, history and geography of the region, and could juggle several customers and their tastings and questions with apparent ease.  The wines were fantastic and I would've been fine with bringing home anything from their menu, including the Chardonnay - I will enjoy an aromatic Moscato frizzante for New Year's.  Their building is a strawbale construction that is both ecologically friendly and educational, having been built by 22 people in a 5 day workshop that I would've loved to been part of.  On top of all that, they have an old dog that want you to throw his slobbery ball for him to fetch.

Seven Stones winery was next, the wine presentation from the winemaker himself who could answer well any questions and included a free tour of the new "caves" he's building; an excavation part for the cellaring of wine but also to house the 'library' of collectable vintages and a banquet hall for special events.  I enjoyed most of the samples and was pleasantly surprised by the Merlot, as something different than the rounder juicier norm.  Those that have sampled wines with me before may have heard me express my personification of each varietal's typical characteristics, and for me Merlot is a large-bosomed aunt that demands a big hug, likely wearing faux flowers and chunky beaded jewelry.  Now the tasting notes on the "Row 128" suggested olive and leather, and intrigued I found quite a different experience with this perennial favorite, less of the berries and more robust and borderline masculine even.  As if dear auntie just beat me at arm wrestling.

Last stop for the afternoon (or was it evening...?) before I completely fall over was Forbidden Fruit winery, the aforementioned fruit-focused winery.  I enjoyed a Sauvignon Blanc/Vidal blend "Sauvidal" and an apple dessert wine "Pomme Desiree" that had the sense (scents) of apple pie, that would either pair with that or replace it entirely.  I think this'll be passed around for Thanksgiving, if it lasts that long.  The last sample was the port-style "Cerise D'Eve" cherry wine.  I wouldn't say I'm a big fan of cherries in general, but this was nice and will be fine with a nip of dark chocolate.  Tasting fee was a suggested donation of $3 and went to a local environmental program.

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Strolling the gardens - Van Dusen and Blodel Conservatory

This is precisely why I don't keep a diary/journal - I've been busy sure enough, but had little time to sit in front of a computer and record it.  So much for a semi-New Year's resolution!

Busy enough enjoying the sunshine and various gardens coming into bloom beyond just the early bulbs.  The growing season flashes by if you don't take the time to notice it.  A metaphor for life, I suppose.  I remember when a schoolyear felt so long and we had little photocopied calendars we were instructed to cross the days off on, to learn to tell the current date.   Now we measure time in semesters, several-year programs, or decades.  I'm not morose about feeling older, just noticing.  To everything there is a season; snowdrops, crocus, hyacinth, narcissus, daffodils, and now the tulips are fading.  The plum and cherry blossoms came and went quickly this year, in my opinion.

I attended the annual plant sale at the Van Dusen Botanical Gardens.  While it is staffed by volunteers and is a fantastic operation I'd support and promote, I still jump at the chance to skip admission fees.  Blessed with a beautiful sunny day, the place was packed and by the time I got there the hardcore gardeners had picked over what I had been mildly considering shopping for - no worries, I can find them easily at other garden shops, I just like to explore odd varietals and browse what's offered -  and the lineups for the checkout stand were so long I was not inclined to wait that long for a whimsical purchase.  I did however speak with the volunteers that were very welcoming, eager, and informative.  Listened to an urban beekeeper talk about his bees too. 

Breaking free from the crowds I spent a couple of hours wandering around the gardens.  Rhododendrons, azaleas, and camillas were out, the colors mainly greens and purples.  Lovely day for a picnic, if I hadn't already been full from breakfast. 

Definitely a top-notch presentation and one of my favorite Vancouver attractions.  The Van Dusen Gardens have a focus on education and the preservation of both biological specimens and the history and heritage associated with them, since many were donated as goodwill gifts from other countries.

Next up was a visit to the Bloedel Conservatory in Queen Elizabeth Park, a tiny jewel in southern Vancouver surrounded by neighbourhoods with houses and yards even! Easy enough to find following Cambie St, I instead meandered up Columbia St and found the Most Beautiful Block 1999-2001 - how else would you know about these things unless you stumbled upon them?  Such discoveries are a pleasant surprise, complete with neighbourhood coffee shop The Mighty Oak that I'll venture out to sometime.  Beautiful houses, no traffic. 

What used to be an old quarry for the railway is now well-manicured lawns and gardens with rolling pathways, topped with a tropical sanctuary in a geodesic dome.  Many of the plants there I recognized as fairly common "indoor" plants; snakeplants, kalanchoe, orchids, and cacti. Some of the larger specimens include fig, papaya, coffee and a variety of palm trees.  The greatest feature for me were the birds, a few also common and recognizable as pets such as the budgies, parrots, and macaws (who quite possibly were previously pets donated to the conservatory).  The space itself is quite small and can be 'done' in an hour, and was quite busy on the day I visited.

Both the Van Dusen gardens and Bloedel Conservatory are situated near fine dining restaurants, Shaughnessy Restaurant and Seasons in the Park respectively.  Both locations are popular spots for weddings, graduation parties, or any other cause for large gatherings and/or professional photos.